Scotland Diaries - Part II

Hiking Loch Ness

lochness.jpgHere is the view of Loch Ness we woke to outside our window on Sunday morning.  Did you know Loch Ness is 700 feet deep and is the largest freshwater lake in Great Britain? I'd always pictured it as this medium-sized lake, but it's actually 23 miles long and 1 mile wide. So darnnit, Nessie could have been hiding anywhere.

 We were planning on driving to some hiking areas, but after breakfast we decided to take a "15-minute walk" down to the Loch. That turned into a 3-hour excursion as we found paths and trails and waterfalls. It rains almost daily in the Highlands but we had a full day of sun.

And the locals freaked out about it. Okay, yes, the sun was out. lochness2.jpgBut it was still a low 62 degrees with a biting wind. As you can see, I'm in a turtleneck and scarf and I took my windbreaker off for this picture. But when we went into town later that day, as I was digging for my gloves the locals were walking around in tank tops and shorts. 

After our hike we drove to Culloden Battlefield. I'd never heard of Culloden but it's a very important bit of history. Culloden is the site of the last major battle fought on mainland Britain. The battle of Culloden took place on April 16, 1746 and was a battle between armies of Prince Charles Edward Stuart--hoping to reclaim the British throne--and the Duke of Cumberland. Prince Charles' army was made up of Highlanders who'd been just slaying any army they were up against. They were a highly feared fighting force. But Cumberland was brutal in tactics that day and the Highlanders--the whole army of them--were slaughtered in less than an hour. It took us that long to walk around the field.

The battlefield exhibit is pretty lame, and there are signs everywhere encouraging people to help fund an upgrade to the site. They did have an excellent 15 minute informative film and--even better--a gnarled old Scottish man who clearly didn't suffer fools, dressed in full Scottish dress and bearing ancient arms. He gave a demonstration of how the Highlanders used to fight that was riveting. Well worth the admission price just to sit and listen to him.

Back to the hotel for dinner and reading and another day complete.

England Diaries Part V / Scotland Diaries Part I

So in travel blog time, we're at Friday, May 19th. At 8 AM, Blair and Mom board an express train back to Gatwick airport and Blair sees her off. (I'm back at the hotel, packing and again cursing myself for bringing so much stuff). Blair comes back and we head to Victoria Station to catch our train to Scotland. The train leaves at No0n and we're at the station by 10:30, so we grab an early lunch. Blair wanders off to find a bookstore and I settle in to read my book.

Fifteen minutes later, Blair comes racing back.  "We have to go. Now," he says, throwing my coat at me and grabbing luggage.

"What?" I say. 

"I just checked the boards. We're leaving from the King Cross station, not Victoria."

Crap. We race downstairs and to the underground. A lot of steps are involved and Blair is Herculean in carrying both suitcases up and down flights of stairs.  We weren't planning on having to go on the Underground so we have to stand in line to buy tickets, watching the minutes click away. It's 11:25.  The station is packed with morning commuters. We're both sweating from hauling the luggage around.  We get on the Underground. Kings Crossing is 3 stops away. Not bad, but it's 11:40. Tick-tock.

We haul ass off the subway, up a maze of stairs (Blair again carrying a 52 pound and 35 pound suitcase plus his backpack) and run through the terminal to the train platform.  We board at 11:43, fall into the seats and look at each other. "Made it," I said. Blair nodded.

"Let's not do that again," I suggest. Blair nods again.

We have a long--4 1/2 hours--but pleasant ride to Edinburgh. We step out into the city and I absolutely 100% fall in love with the city. I thought I liked England and London, but I discover I love Scotland. Edinburgh especially. It's very gothic looking with cobblestone streets and long, thin spires framed against the sky, narrow side alleys and blackened stone buildings.  Loved, loved, loved it.

The George Hotel where we stayed was stunning. Top of the list for contemporary comfort and beauty. I didn't even mind that our room looked out to an alleyway and the trash trucks woke us up the next morning.   

edb.jpgWe dropped off the luggage and set out exploring. The first monument we came to was a memorial to Sir Walter Scott--a 200 ft. monument one could climb for a view of the city. The last entry was at 5:30 and we bought our tickets at 5:23.  We were halfway up the 287 steps when a loudspeaker came on, asking people to please vacate the monument. Naturally, we raced full-speed to the top. The wind was enough to blow us over up there, but the monument offered views of the entire city.

That night, we took a ghost walk tour of the city which also included tidbits of historical information of note. For example, did you know John Knox (the father of Protestant Reformation in Scotland) is buried under a parking space? Parking space #23, to be exact. Tourists come and stare at the parking space and take pictures. It's very weird.

 The next day we woke up to what would be our worst day of weather on the trip. Pouring rain, very cold. We toured St. Giles church. Humorous side note: As we opened the doors to the church, the organ burst into song--loud enough that you almost wanted to clap your hands over your ears.  I told Blair I so rarely walk into a church these days that God felt the need to celebrate the occasion with song.

After St. Giles we continued walking up The Royal Mile to Edinburgh Castle. I'd like to say I enjoyed the castle but I was so wet and cold and miserable, I really didn't. My umbrella kept blowing inside out and finally one of the spokes broke and my hands were numb. I did enjoy seeing The Honors (the crown jewels of Scotland that were locked away in a trunk for 111 years) though.

We walked back to the hotel and caught a cab to the airport where we had reserved a car. The plan was to drive north through Scotland to the Highlands and Loch Ness. We were nervous as we pulled away though. We really weren't sure how long a drive it would be. Perhaps we should have taken the train?

blaircastle.jpgNope. The drive was fun. Plus, Blair passed an exit for "Blair Castle," so of course we had to stop for pictures and to buy a souvenir apron.

We arrived in Inverness--the town located near Loch Ness--but we had a problem. Somehow we'd managed to set off without the hotel phone number, street address or directions. We went to the train station, eventually found a pay phone and called.  The last 10 miles of our trip were down a small (and I do mean SMALL. Barely big enough for one car) windy road that ran by the Loch. There were no signs, no exits, no way to turn around. We had no idea if we were going in the right direction which was nerve-racking as it felt we were driving off into nowhere.

So it was a great relief to reach the hotel.  It was charming. Well-worn with dark wood panels, scenic paintings of Loch Ness and a view outside our window of Loch Ness to die for. We changed, had dinner and went to bed. We opened the window and the mists of Loch Ness were right outside. It was still light at 10 PM when we drifted off to sleep.

England Diaries - Part IV

abbey.jpgOn Thursday we slept in as Westminster Abbey didn't open until 9:30.  Worth noting is that this was our 5th day in England and our first day of waking up to full sun.

Westminster Abbey was one of my favorite sites of the entire trip although it's much more like a tomb than a church. I stood entranced in front of the tomb of Elizabeth I ("Right there!" I kept thinking. "She's buried right there.") and also of her half-sister Mary.

I learned Westminster Abbey has no bathroom open to the public, got directions to a public toilet a block away, ran in dire need to the toilet only to discover public toilets in England require you pay 50p to enter. Back I raced to Blair, hopping up and down on one leg as I scrambled for money, then raced back. Live and learn.

We went to Covenant Garden for lunch and then to the British Museum but we were all tired by then and really just not into it.  

Mom was ready for a nap so we dropped her off and then in 2 hours, Blair and I managed to see Picadilly Circus, Leister Square, Trafalgar Square, and Hyde Park. We moved.

Hyde Park is this big, green beautiful park with wide paths for running. They also have paddleboats. There were only 2 boats out on the water which should have clued us in, but we're not that bright. We took a boat out and were immediately hit by winds. Plus, we had Rudder trouble and could only go backwards. I have no idea why. There was a skinny guy alone in his paddleboat, kicking our ass. It was embarrassing.

We meandered around for about 20 minutes and finally managed to go forward and put some distance between us and the return area. When we headed for shore I was exhausted.  Throbbing thigh muscles, thirsty, bedraggled. I'm slogging along on the peddles, begging Blair for a rest. But he's aiming the boat at the shore and shouting "Ramming speed!" as he peddles furiously for the dock. He does make me laugh. 

Tomorrow: How we almost missed our train to Scotland. 

Gardening & Book Launches

Thought I'd give you a break from the posts about the trip and blog about other things.

We've planted a garden. That's big news. I wasn't aware we were going to. We've talked about having a garden for years, sort of like the way we talk about our need to eat a well-balanced diet. I never expected either of them to happen.

But Blair came in last Saturday covered with dirt and a grin on his face and said, "I dug us a garden."

"Why would you do that?" I asked, alarmed.

"You know. So we can plant things."

"What things?"

His face clouded over and he appeared momentarily stumped. Then he brightened. "Leafy things."

A good idea, but I think we're a little behind in getting started. Every seed packet I read said to plant after the frist frost. Please. Like I really  have the ability to plan that far ahead.

So we picked up some tomato plants and a lot of herbs - oregano, rosemary, basil, chives--and planted those.  It's a start. I'm pretty sure we just spent a lot of money on food for the rabbits, but I'd be most pleased to eat a tomato we grew ourselves.

Other big news is that my friend Pamela King Cable had her book launch last night for her magnificent book of literary Southern Fiction short stories called Southern Fried Women. Pat Conroy's wife, Cassandra King (no relation to Pam) blurbed the book and Pam deserves every word of praise. It is an astonishing book and I'd recommend anyone pick up a copy and give as a gift to the "Fried Women" (Southern or not) in your life.  I got to introduce Pam and it was an honor.  

I have placed myself on a strict exercise schedule and--dear God--my body hurts. I've doing cardio and weights 3x/week and yoga 3-4 times a week. I have a family wedding to attend in September and the goal is to be fit, firm and fabulous by then. (or anything close to that--I'm not picky).